In the archive section below I have how-tos that link to threads I have done on the repairing of the flaky water/fuel gauges. So follow the Bentley and test it a wee bit. Lastly there is the 10v stabilizer that controls the voltage to the water temp and fuel gauge, they go bad. Service Manager had his lead VW tech test the entire cooling system instead. On the plastic tongue you will place one strip of electrical tape, (pin side of the tongue.), replace the mylar, replace the shroud. I added about 2 oz of distilled water, and the light quit coming on. Carefully remove the mylar off the tongue. You remove the fingered plastic shroud off the connector. Blue warning light flashes: comes on to indicate a malfunction within the electrical section of the cooling system. The connections at the bottom of the cluster can be tightened to make better connectivity. You half to take the face off the gauge and re-fresh the solder. So the bias that is needed for the flashy light isn't correct and can trip that. The 2 larger studs on the back can get cold soldered and half work. Most Volkswagen dashboard warning lights use a traffic light system to give you an indication of the seriousness of the warning light: Green: the system is working correctly or is currently in use. They use a nica-chrome wire wrapped around a Bi-metallic spring.Īs the sending unit sends resistance to the gauge from zero to infinity (ok not infinite) the wire heats or cools bending the metal spring that the needle is attached to. There are 3 studs for the gauge, one in the center is for the flashy light. The Gauge itself can get "Cold Soldered" joints internally. ![]() If your Fluid is more than 50/50 in a dilution that can interfere with the proper operation. The sender sits in a plastic cup, and on older style Expansion jugs, they didn't have a "Air Bleed" hole at the top so your sender can be sitting in a air pocket and not in the fluid. When replacing it be sure the jug is to the full mark prior to replacing the sender, it is a 27 or 28mm socket that you can use to remove, Lubricate the o-ring. Remove the sender and use sand paper on the tips. Since you really can't short the sender out to test it, there is IIRC about 180 ohms of resistance in the tips when they are in coolant. The most common is that the sender has 2 metal tips, while they look clean they can calcify.
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